週次 |
日期 |
單元主題 |
第1週 |
02/19 |
Introduction |
第2週 |
02/26 |
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass, Equation of motion in ocean |
第3週 |
03/05 |
The Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean |
第4週 |
03/12 |
Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean, scaling of motion |
第5週 |
03/19 |
II. Hydrodynamic equation: Perturbation method
III. Small amplitude wave theory |
第6週 |
03/26 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude wave theory - Problem formulation and boundary conditions |
第7週 |
04/02 |
溫書假 |
第8週 |
04/09 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave solution and Gravity-Capillary wave solution. |
第9週 |
04/16 |
III. theory of waves: Dispersion relation, standing wave and waves on a uniform current. |
第10週 |
04/23 |
IV. Engineering properties of gravity waves:
standing wave and waves on a uniform current. |
第11週 |
04/30 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: particle velocity and trajectory, pressure and pure standing waves |
第12週 |
05/07 |
Midterm examination |
第13週 |
05/14 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: partial standing waves and energy transfer |
第14週 |
05/21 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: Transformations of waves entering shallow water |
第15週 |
05/28 |
V shallow water waves |
第16週 |
06/04 |
V. Shallow water waves |
第17週 |
06/11 |
VI. Statistics of ocean waves |
第18週 |
06/18 |
Final Examination |